Instructions Of Interior Painting
Interior painting requires as careful preparation of surfaces as does external painting. The advent of odorless paints now can help you paint any time of the year. Formerly, most interior painting in the house was done in the tumble or spring, when it had been possible to leave the windows open to ventilate the area. But open windows brought dust in to the room to mar the finished painted surface.
A good interior paint job is often 50% preparation and 50% painting. Usually do not rush in preparing the floors in your eagerness to access the brush or roller. If you do not prepare the surfaces properly, you'll be back with the paint brush or roller in a couple of months.
In this section you will find the necessary information on the use of several types of paints on various interior wall structure, ceiling and floor materials.
New dry plaster in good shape, which is to be done with a paint other than water paint, ought to be given a coat of primer-sealer and allowed to dry thoroughly before staying inspected for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and coloring differences regarding tinted primers indicate set up whole surface has been entirely sealed. If not, a second coat of primer-sealer ought to be applied. If only a few "suction spots" are apparent, a second coat over these areas could be sufficient.
A flat, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish could be put on the primed surface. Franklin Painters For a flat finish, two coats of flat wall color should follow the priming coat. For a semi-gloss surface finish, one coat of flat wall structure paint and one coat of semi-gloss paint should be applied to the primed surface area. For a high-gloss end, one coat of semi-gloss color and one coat of high-gloss enamel should be used over the priming coat.
Before applying water paints of the calcimine sort to new plastered walls they must be sized, using the glue-water dimension or, if the plaster will be dry, a thin varnish or primer-sealer.
Cool water paints of the casein type may be applied either right to a plastered surface, or the surface may be first given a coating of primer-sealer to equalize uneven suction effects. The same is true of resin-emulsion paints, with the recommendations of the manufacturer of the product being given preference in case of doubt. Since resin-emulsion paints usually contain some essential oil in the binder, they ought to ordinarily be applied only to plaster which includes dried thoroughly.
Texture wall paints could also be used on plaster surfaces. The benefits of this kind of paint are that one coat economically makes a textured decoration and relieves the monotony of even flat paint. It also covers cracks or patches in the plaster extra completely than ordinary wall paint. The cons of texture wall paint are that they Collect dust and so are difficult to revive to a smooth surface finish. These materials can be found as water-or oil-based paints, will be thicker than ordinary wall paints, and may be applied to wallboard in addition to plaster to produce textured effects such as for example random, Spanish, mission, and multicolored.
Composition wallboard typically presents no particular painting difficulties if the normal precautions are observed, such as making certain that the surface is dry and clear of grease and oil. The painting process of wallboard is equivalent to for plaster; it needs a priming and sealing coat accompanied by whatever finishes coats are preferred, or could be given one-coat flat or resin-emulsion type paint.
Water-thinned paint may be put on wallpaper that is well- bonded to the walls and does not contain dyes which might bleed into the color. One thickness of wallpaper is preferable for color application. Paints other than those of the water-thinned kind may also be applied to wallpaper by following a instructions given for painting plaster. Even so, wallpaper coated with such a paint is difficult to remove without problems for the plaster.
Wood Walls and Trim
New interior walls and hardwood trim ought to be smoothed with sand-document and dusted before painting or varnishing. To preserve the grain of the timber, the surface could be rubbed with linseed essential oil, varnished or shellacked, and waxed. If an opaque surface finish is desired, semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint or the primer-sealer formerly described for walls can be utilized as a priming layer on wood. A couple of coats of semi-gloss color should then be applied on the thoroughly dry prime coating, or if a full-gloss finish is desired, the final coat ought to be a high-gloss enamel.
Masonry Walls and Ceilings
Interior masonry wall space and ceilings above grade may, in general, be painted in much the same manner as plaster surfaces. In this article again, it is necessary to allow adequate time for the masonry to dry out before applying paint and, in addition, attention should be directed at the preparation of the top. When decorating a wall containing Portland cement (concrete, for instance), it is essential to take precautions contrary to the attack of alkali. For this function, alkali-resistant primers such as rubber-base paints can be utilized when oil paints are to check out.
Cement-water paints are best suited for application to basement walls which are damp due to leakage or condensation. To apply these paints, the same procedure should be followed as is described in this article for painting exterior masonry surfaces.